DCSS, absolutely. Just don't play as a Centaur or Spriggan to start - they both have hunger issues. Mages also run into hunger issues early on, since casting spells adds to hunger. Roll yourself up a Minotaur Berserker and smash some heads with your Great Mace of Xibathito +5 +10 {rF++, Int -3, Dam +5, noisy}.
The further you get into it, the more exciting the process of character building becomes. High Elf in heavy armour who is also a master enchanter and deadly with the blade? Hell yeah.
EDIT: I should add that DCSS, unlike the *bands, has a lot of urgency and strives for a constant level of challenge. Scumming is more or less a given in most *bands, and DCSS doesn't really allow for it in its design. To me, that makes the discovery of a weird magical item that much more exciting; it may not be the ideal choice for my current build, but will it allow me to survive the next few levels?