Well, I have a feeling of hardness that I do not usually have when playing roguelikes. Hard to tell how much of this is unfair, and how much it is due to my inexperience with the innovative features. Most monsters are threats, and meeting two at once is often deadly. In most big roguelikes, threats occur rather rarely, and you get some escape routes (teleport, healing, powerful wands, etc.). I seem not to get enough of them here (of course, a roguelike is won once you play so good that you get more healing potions and other escape routes than you use, maybe I am simply not yet on this level).
Currently I get to around floor 4 in my better games.
Sometimes I get killed by unintentional starvation (I am suddenly dead). An audio hint and some other hint would be helpful here.
But generally, meeting something too strong. For example, in my last game: I walk around on Floor 4 in the human form, and I meet a green man. Sunlight makes it stronger, and it is faster. I see no way to prevent death in this situation.
I also once almost starved (found no food -- actually I did not starve, I went to the next floor looking for food and got killed by a powerful lapis golem, but anyway). There was no food on the first two floors, or something.
Showing torches on the map surely would be helpful -- I go as a vampire, extinguish all the torches to kill humans, then I return as a human to kill the vampires, and I want to know where these torches were.
Maybe you could use this style for the map:
http://media.indiedb.com/images/games/1/33/32467/dungeon2.png -- basically, a tiny ASCII screen. Then you could easily mark everything clearly.